Before you buy any of the platform cars, it is advisable to make a rather thorough diagnosis. This is especially true for a car, which has long been in Russia. This is due to the fact that these cars in most cases are used for their intended purpose – that is, they are operated in harsh conditions. Nothing particularly new and distinctive in comparison with the diagnostics of any other off-road vehicle will have to be done. However, there are some weaknesses that should be taken into account in addition to the standard inspection procedures:
When checking the condition of the 4Runner (Hilux Surf) body, special attention should be paid to the rear wheel arches. There is a tendency for rust to form on them. The causes of this rust are as follows: the use of wide wheels that protrude far beyond the arch and throw the last one in with stones and mud; also, rust is often formed under incorrectly installed or damaged wheel arch extensions. Attention!!! Expanders can be used to hide this rust.
You should also pay attention to the rear door and its elevator mechanism. This knot quite often sour by itself or because of damage to the glass sealing gum and the entry of large amounts of water and dirt into the door. The new mechanism is very expensive. Therefore, it is desirable to make sure that everything is in order. And if after the purchase to clean and lubricate the unit, it will serve for many years without breakage.
If you buy a 4-Ranner (Surfa) model with a 3VZ-E engine, you should pay special attention to both GBZ and compression. The fact is that this engine is prone to overheating if not maintained properly. In the case of overheating, it leads the heads. After that, the heads are ground, but usually not under the thicker repair gasket, but simply – on the eye. Then they are put back on the gasket of standard size, resulting in a sharp increase in compression. Under this pressure, the gasket quickly ceases to perform its functions, but even here, our mediocre are not lost and tightens the GBT such a moment that sometimes manages to rip the thread (so that the gasket does not leak). After that, the car is immediately put up for sale. To buy such a car is the same as buying a car with a dead engine that requires an overhaul. Clamped gaskets will soon finally die, the antifreeze will get into the oil and/or the combustion chamber, and the engine will probably overheat again. In addition to all this, the increased compression and, consequently, the increased shock load on the crankshaft will result in a quick end to the liners and the engine will stand up.
If you buy a diesel car, just pay special attention to the GBTs. This is not the case here. The fact is that in case of overheating, diesel GBTs very often give cracks through which the gases from the combustion chamber begin to enter the antifreeze and oil (and/or all other combinations of mixing). For example, on 1KZ series engines, the GBZ gasket is three-layer metal and there is nothing to burn through. On the other hand, SBTs crack almost always when overheating. It is easy to check for such cracks. For this you need: First. On a warmed-up engine, remove the hose with a tube from the expansion tank and immerse the tube in a transparent glass with clean water. Run the engine at different speeds (blanks in particular). If there are any bubbles coming out of the tube, it means that gases from the combustion chamber enter the antifreeze. This is the most common phenomenon with cracks in the GBT. The second one. Check the oil. If you find a turbid emulsion on the dipstick instead of black oil, it means that the antifreeze is entering the oil. The oil level is usually much higher than normal. Third. The presence of the characteristic white and blue smoke from the exhaust pipe – indicates that the antifreeze enters the combustion chamber. Solder cracks in the SBT are useless. They will open anyway. It is better to buy a new one right away. All of the above features are also typical for burnt gasoline and diesel gasoline gaskets of the HBT.
There are no obvious weak points here. You need to check everything. From the quantity and quality of oil in the units to the backlashes of the main pairs, Cardan crosses, steering (especially pendulum), the state of silent suspension blocks. Particular attention should be paid to the work of the transfer case and 4WD mode in general. If you choose the model of 1st or 2nd generation, then do it on the asphalt DOES NOT (as well as on any other coating that provides the good grip of the wheels to the road). Reasons are described at the beginning of the next section. If the car of the 3rd or 4th generation, then it is necessary to check the mechanism of the axle differential lock (also not on asphalt). It is also necessary to check the inner wheel lock if it is available.